Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
